The Pelion peninsula, according to Greek legend, was the site chosen by the gods for their revelries and holidays. Endorsements can't get better than that, and for today's Greeks the lush mountain scenery and clean beaches are still a popular destination. But, as yet, the area remains little known to travellers from outside Greece. They are missing out on a treat.

The hillside village of Tsangaradha, surrounded by sweet-smelling apple orchards and criss-crossed with kalderimi paths, makes an excellent base for walkers. The main square, Ayia Peraskevi, is famous for its vast plane tree, said to be the oldest in Greece, with an astoundingly corpulent girth and a bough leaning drunkenly on a stone plinth. Given Tsangaradha's height, temperatures remain fairly cool, even in August.

Overlooking the giant plane tree is The Lost Unicorn, an old-fashioned English-owned hotel. The 10 rooms look much as they must have done when the hotel first opened a century ago - dark mahogany beds, marble-topped dressing tables, heavy curtains and Chinese prints. Guests (mostly Greek and English) are offered a daily set menu, costing £21 for three courses, plus wine. Available through Sunvil [or direct via www.lostunicorn.com]

The best place to eat is the Enoxia, at the southern end of the approach road. It has contemporary décor and serves variations on traditional dishes, such as spiced smoked eel, rosemary risotto and goat in red wine. Three courses with wine cost about £17.

  Article in Daily Telegraph Travel supplement 12 June 2004 - see full article.

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